Permanent makeup – Lips
PERMANENT MAKEUP OF THE LIPS.
Depending on the fullness of the paint, permanent lip makeup involves only the selection of the contour or full filling of the lips with color (contour + shading). Depending on the task (giving brightness, Shine, changing the color of the lips, increasing the volume), various techniques for applying pigments are used.
The steps in the procedure of permanent lip makeup
Purification
Before the procedure, it is necessary to completely clean the skin of the lips from cosmetics to choose the appropriate shade of pigment, depending on the natural color of the mucous membrane and lip border. To clean and degrease the skin, use cotton pads moistened with a solution of chlorhexidine or wet wipes. At the stage of purification,
it is recommended to apply gommage (soft scrub) to the lip area, which will gently dissolve and remove dead cells, enhancing the effect of the applied anesthesia.
Anesthesia
An anesthetic solution (preferably an ampoule anesthetic) is applied to the lip area with a cotton swab before the procedure for 15 minutes. Ampoule anesthetic does not contain an oil base, so it dries quickly. As it dries, an additional application of the drug is possible. Bleaching of the skin at the site of application of the anesthetic occurs due to the narrowing of blood vessels and is a normal reaction. It should be noted that after the first pass of the needle (violation of the integrity of the skin), the effect of the applied anesthesia increases. In the course of work, focusing on the pain of the client, it is possible to periodically apply an anesthetic already on the opened skin for 2 minutes.
Implementation sketch: the selection of colors and shapes
The sketch is a drawing of the contour of the lips. When modeling lips with permanent makeup, we must not forget that there is no certain standard shape of the lips, suitable for any person. To choose the shape you need to take into account the individual proportions and shape of the face:
-if the face is round, then fit long lips with pointed corners of the upper lip; - elongated face podomut lips rounded or "bow". If the mouth is made too large and elongated, the upper part of the face will visually appear narrowed; ("bow") and from them to draw slightly concave lines to the corners of the mouth. The contour of the upper lip does not reach the corners of the mouth, and the contour of the lower lip, on the contrary, is drawn to the corners. The lower lip should be slightly wider than the upper lip. If the distance between the nose and the red border of the lips is small, do not increase the upper lip, even if the client insists, otherwise, the mouth will seem literally under the nose.
with a pointed tip of the nose it is not recommended to place the corners of the bow at a great distance from each other;
- square face fit voluminous, pronounced lips with an emphasis on the corners of the "bow" of the upper lip;
with a triangular face (usually with a pronounced chin), you can safely increase the lower lip, thereby visually reducing the chin; - with lowered corners of the lips, you need to slightly raise the highest points of the upper lip.
OPTIONS FOR CORRECTING THE SHAPE OF THE LIPS.
The sketch is made with a gel pen or a contour pencil.
It is advisable to use a red marker to avoid getting black or blue ink into the skin along with the pigment. The sketch should be performed by the master, not the client, as this will facilitate the subsequent process of work. During the execution of the sketch, the master gets the opportunity to study the relief of the face, and due to the inclusion of mechanical memory, the selected shape will be easier to repeat when working with the machine.
The sketch is performed on the client, which is in the supine position. In this position, the client's facial muscles are relaxed, which makes it easier to apply contour lines. The master checks the symmetry and appropriateness of the received form by placing the client and examining the face from different sides. It is also necessary to find out how the new contour behaves in facial expressions: when talking, smiling. To identify the asymmetry, the master can look at the completed sketch through a mirror: standing behind the shoulder of the client, looking in the mirror.
The drawn contour should not go beyond the lip border by more than 5 mm. The working area at the stage of fixing the contour with a needle will be the outer edge of the sketch line, so the sketch line (contour) should be drawn clearly and evenly. During work, the master will pull the skin like a canvas (to facilitate the penetration of the needle) and the slightest irregularities of the contour will be visible. The sketch should be executed perfectly on each section since when passing the needle, the master will see only a small section of the working area, and repeat all the irregularities of the drawn contour.
It is important to choose the right shade of pigment, depending on the task.
Light colors optically increase the lips, dark-reduce and add age. To give volume to the lips, pastel shades are used, for brightness-shades of rich berry tones.
When choosing a color, it is also important to take into account the natural color of the client's lip mucosa and border. For example, if you apply a light tone to dark lips, the result will not be visible. If the lips have a warm shade, you can choose any cold color up to lilac, without fear of getting a bluish hue. But if the lips have a bluish hue, then it is extremely dangerous to work with cold colors. In this case, add a drop of orange-yellow blue neutralizer to the mixture of pigments.
The brightness of the color is regulated by changing the proportions of the mixed pigments: in favor of natural color,
or in the direction of a brighter one. If the client chose a light tone, for example, natural pink, it is possible that the end result will be for her inexpressive, imperceptible. To increase the brightness, the master must increase the amount of pink in the mixture of pigments of pink and natural colors.
To correct the acquired (by low-quality permanent makeup) or natural bluish hue of the lips, you will need to use special corrective pigments of orange-yellow color for spectral neutralization. And only a month after full healing, it is possible to choose and apply the desired color. In complex cases, the procedure with the use of corrective pigment must be repeated several times until the corrected areas are completely corrected.
The technique of permanent makeup includes the following steps:
- Fixing the lip contour with a needle.
- Preciosa feathering (tight Sacrae skin between the new and the natural contour of the lips).
- Actually shading (filling the lips with color to the line of their closing).
Lip contour as an independent procedure is not used, but only in combination with the border shading. So that the lips do not look outlined with a contour pencil, the color of the pigment picks up the tone of the lips or lighter. If the lip contour is combined with shading, then it is possible to make the contour a darker color.
Contour fixation is performed with a single-channel needle if the client wants a clear contour and with beam needles if we want to get the effect of naturalness and softness. In permanent makeup, only disposable sterile needles are used. It is advisable to open the package with a needle in front of the client to prevent his concerns about the safety of the procedure. Work is better to start with the lower lip. If you start with the top, then the drawn contour of the lower lip in the process will be lost (smeared with the fingers of the working hand).
When passing the contour, it is important to apply uniform pressure of the needle to the skin, otherwise, the contour will turn out as a dotted line or uneven. Uniform pressure of the needle on the skin is achieved by the" correct " focus of the working hand: the forearm should not be overhung, but should rest on the client's shoulder; the little finger should rest on the client's chin, limiting the depth of the puncture.
It is important to feel the characteristic vibration of the skin, which is transmitted to it from the needle of the machine, with the fingers of the free hand that fixes the impact zone during operation. The vibration should be light. The needle should not " dig " the skin: often go in and out of it. Once having overcome the skin barrier, the master should try to get out of the epidermis as little as possible. This control reduces the pain of the client, as painful is the moment of immersion of the needle into the skin, and not finding the needle in the thickness of the skin.
If the pigment is embedded too superficially or too deeply-the result will not be stable enough, up to its complete absence. Control over the depth of the needle insertion into the skin of the lips is especially important, as, with a deep introduction, the pigment is laid dirty or bluish shades that are difficult to remove. In some schools of permanent makeup beginners are taught to hedge against deep penetration of the needle, by reducing the departure of the needle and work "to the level of the cap." This is inconvenient because the masters behind the cap, which is almost pressed against the skin, do not see the line being drawn, and the paint from the cap fills the work area. It is better to make the needle outflow sufficient so that the paint from the cap does not fill the work surface, and work shallowly, focusing on the vibration, the degree of bleeding and the color of the implanted pigment.
When passing the contour, the needle of the machine should be ahead of the movement: follow ahead in relation to the handle (handle) of the machine. The direction of movement, from the corners of the lips to the center.
The contour line is executed by small (but not too) reciprocating movements. Do not make the strokes too small (partial), otherwise, the contour will expand. With the fingers of his free hand, the master fixes the skin in the working area but does not pull it. Severe bleeding and the release of yellowish fluid from the wound should serve as a signal that due to too deep.
dip of the needle is damaged the small blood vessels.
After the first pass, a liquid anesthetic is applied to the already opened skin for 2 minutes and then erased. On the opened skin, you should not keep the anesthesia for more than 2 minutes, since against the background of cyanosis caused by the anesthetic drug, the degree of staining of the site is not visible. To make the contour thin and unobtrusive, you should make no more than two passes through it with a needle. The second pass must go strictly along the previously drawn contour, without deviations to the side. If the client wants to highlight the contour of the lips, it is possible to make a third pass, which is performed by spiral movements along the contour of the lips to expand and saturate the contour with color. It should be noted that the pronounced and dark contour of the lips gives the face age.
After 2-3 passes with the needle, the completed contour should look like a solid, well-filled line, since any gap will be visible after healing.
Border shading
In life, it is rare to find perfectly shaped lips, so the new contour rarely coincides with the natural contour of the lips. To offset this difference, we use a border (sub-contour) shading -a dense border of the space between the "new" and " old " contour.
Edge-to-edge feathering is performed with a three-channel or five-channel beam needle. Small spiral movements paint over the space of the upper and lower lip adjacent to the contour (sub-contour space). The width of the edge shading is on average 3 mm. the principle of the needle stroke is "ahead of the movement". A spiral line is slowly drawn along the contour with circular movements. The spiral must be dense: each subsequent circular element must overlap (go) to the previous one. Once having overcome the skin barrier, the master should try to get out of the epidermis as little as possible. When performing edge-to-edge feathering, you should enter (capture) the contour of the lips. Otherwise, even while working, color gaps become visible, which are difficult to paint over. The machine for permanent makeup has a certain frequency of needle strokes, so if the area is not painted, you should slow down and allow the needle to make more punctures in this area.
Preciosa feathering is performed in two passes. After the first pass, an anesthetic is applied to the opened skin for 5-10 minutes. It is very convenient to use a color enhancer in the edge shading, which is applied to the skin of the lips with a cotton swab during operation for a couple of minutes. It shows the color and accelerates the transplantation of pigment two or three times.
Feathering. This stage is optional for those who want to limit themselves only to permanent makeup of the lip contour.
The main feathering is performed with beam or flat needles. Beam needles are used for dense covering the surface of the lips. The use of flat (normal or beveled) needles allows you to transparently" watercolor " apply color to the surface of the lips while maintaining the effect of maximum naturalness. The main feathering is performed in a spiral technique: circular movements from the contour - to the line of closing the lips. The color is applied up to the mucosa. In contrast to the border shading, it is not important density, and uniformity of the paint.
The shading stage is characterized by increased bleeding. Blood can get into the cap (nozzle) and implanted with the paint, forming dirty spots on the surface of the lips. The cap must be cleaned of accumulated blood.