Coloristics, pigments for permanent makeup – basic course

Pigment for permanent makeup is a coloring substance, so without knowledge of coloristics, success in the professional activity of the master of permanent makeup is impossible.

Coloristics-the science of color, which explains the phenomena of color: the origin of color, its changes in a different light and at different distances, the mixing of colors and the basis of their harmony.

All colors are divided into achromatic and chromatic.

Achromatic (without color): white, all shades of gray and black. Chromatic - all other colors.

Chromatic colors are divided into basic and composite:

The primary color is a color that cannot be obtained by mixing other colors. They are often called pure because all other colors are derived from them. The main colors are: red, blue, yellow.

When all three primary colors are mixed in equal proportions, the black color of the highest intensity is obtained. The unequal proportions of the three primary colors give a neutral brown or lighter color (depending on the amount of each pigment). For example, different proportions of red, yellow and blue with a predominance of red give a reddish-brown color, the predominance of yellow creates a Golden-brown tone, and if there is more blue than red or yellow, a dark or dull brown color is obtained

Composite colors are obtained by mixing two primary colors. The composite colors are: orange, green, purple

By mixing the main and composite colors get all the variety of shades.

Basic and composite colors that are opposed to each other in the color scheme, when mixed, neutralize each other. For example, red and green when mixed in equal amounts neutralize each other, creating a brown. Neutralize each other orange and blue, yellow and purple.

Therefore, permanent makeup of neutralization an unaesthetic purple lip shade is used with a primary content yellow, and to neutralize

the blue shade of eyebrows-pigment, with a predominant content of an orange.

Temperature is a color characteristic on a cold-warm scale. In General, blue and green shades are considered cold, and yellow and red - warm.

Experimentally, it was found that the subjective feeling of temperature in rooms painted in blue-green and red-orange tones differs by 3-4 degrees. In a blue-green room, people begin to complain about the cold at a temperature of 15°, while in a red-orange room - only at a temperature of 11-12°.

The division into warm and cold colors and color types appearance is the main criterion for selection

the color scheme in permanent makeup.

COLOR TYPES OF APPEARANCE

COLOR TYPE SUMMER.

Distinctive feature:

1. The direction of all shades is distinctly cold.
2. Hair - all variants of light brown colors. From light brown almost blond to gray-brown. But always with the obvious ashen tint.
3. The skin is a distinct cold shade, maybe very light (in this case, almost do not tan, but more often

burn to pink burns), and quite dark, almost olive-in this case, the tan goes well and

persists most of the year.

4. Eyebrows of the same color and tone with hair can be slightly darker or lighter, but never about them, you can't say they're black.
5. Eyelashes from ash-blond (light enough) to gray-black (the darkest version).
6. Her lips were a cool pink, with a distinct blue undertone.
7. Moles and freckles are always ash-gray. Any reddish or Golden pigmentation indicates belonging to other color types.

The main motto is moderation. Summer type does not tolerate clear boundaries and excessive drama in makeup, especially in the eye area. Lips can be both light and quite saturated.

THE COLOR TYPE AUTUMN.

If you choose one word that would describe the autumn type, it would be "red", or "reddish", or "with reddish hair".

Trappings:

1. Red, reddish, or dark brown hair.
2. Distinctly warm skin tone.
3. Often there are freckles (maybe seasonal) and a tendency to moles of intense red or yellowish-brown color.
4. Eyebrows under color hair or a bit lighter. In light variations, the lashes are often fluffy, but almost colorless, so they deprive the eyes of a distinct contour.
5. Bright lips.
6. Or do not sunbathe at all, or with great difficulty.

Autumn type can afford quite a lot of makeup, without fear of seeming unnecessary

"painted", it is only necessary to avoid hard lines in the eye area. Lips can be light and very dark, from light orange-beige and orange-red (bold can try orange, this color on the lips is only autumn color) through scarlet to copper-red-brown and in extreme cases-chocolate. Exclude any cold and neutral and unnecessarily "muted" shades.

COLOR TYPE WINTER.

The word of this color type is "completeness". Like Yin and Yang, winter wonderfully combines the most contrasting shades possible.

Trappings:

1. Eyebrows and eyelashes. They're black. Not just dark, not dark

gray or rich brown, and it is black. What our ancestors called sable. It is by this combination that you can easily determine the winter

2. All the shades inherent in the appearance of winter, definitely cold contrast with each other;
3. Leather-porcelain or olive;
4. Blush is rare, it is light and always pink (never peachy, like spring);
5. The lips have a distinct cold, pink-blue undertone;
6. Hair shades are very different, usually, they tend to black, but can occur and dark brown and even almost white. But all of them are definitely cold, without copper or red hair.

Main principle: contrast. Women of this type can use both warm and cold shades, combine them.

COLOR TYPE SPRING

An exhaustive synonym is "natural blonde".

Trappings:

1. The direction of all shades is distinctly warm.
2. Hair straw, Golden, wheat, honey or color of red (rusty) gold;
3. In an unburned state, the skin is light with a warm Golden undertone and a very beautiful peach blush;
4. Lips from nature are quite bright and red, from salmon-peach (in rare light cases) to rich red, but without admixtures of bluish pink;
5. Very often there are freckles, they are always Golden or light brown, but never gray or ashy;
6. Eyelashes are often almost colorless or a tone lighter than hair;
7. Eyebrows are a light golden or light brown. The tone is close to the hair, maybe slightly darker or lighter;
8. Despite the delicate skin, most often tango very well (unlike the related autumn color), often reaching a very active rich shade. The color is the pigmentation of Golden - brown, reddish-honey, or even light chocolate.

Make-up should be moderate and harmonious, not too light, and not dark, and medium tone.

Warm colors adorn people with a warm color type, and cold shades - with a cold one. This is true for makeup using cosmetics, clothing, and accessories. But pigment colors that look great on the skin surface after implantation can lead to the effect of increasing the color temperature. And the client of the cold type, rightly using lilac lipstick, making the procedure of permanent makeup similar in tone pigment can get "bluish" lips.

Important:

- for cold type of appearance with caution to apply cold shades and only-for young clients; for age pigments of warm tones are preferred.

- for eyeliner at age clients, with a vascular grid on eyelids and with yellowish whites it is not recommended to apply pigments of warm (brown, brown-green) shades;

- with age, the skin may acquire a grayish hue and permanent makeup eyebrows are better to give preference to warm tones that refresh and rejuvenate the face. Cold tones on the contrary-enhance the appearance of pigmentation and rosacea.

Pigment for perma11e11t11ogo makeup: a is a dry coloring concentrate diluted in a liquid fraction. Dry coloring concentrate is a mixture of mineral components: iron and zinc oxides, titanium dioxide, etc. iron Oxide is the basis of dry coloring matter and is part of absolutely all dyes, in different concentrations depending on the manufacturer. Many years of research have led to the conclusion that the only dyes that do not change their properties when applied to the skin are mineral dyes. On the contrary, plant and natural coloring components (henna, ochre, etc.) are subject to changes in shades when interacting with ultraviolet radiation (sunlight) and such brightening factors as, for example, chlorine that penetrates the skin during water procedures.

The liquid fraction is the base in which the dye is diluted. Depending on the composition of the liquid fraction, the pigments are divided into:

- alcohol-based pigments. With respect to the liquid pigments. Alcohol pigments are easily implanted. The alcohol content causes the formation of a more thin-walled fibrous capsule around the pigment particle, so the colors are bright. The disadvantage of this type of pigment is the color change after implantation. In addition, alcohol can cause pigment migration to nearby small vessels, especially on the eyelids. Alcohol pigments can spread in the skin, even after a few years after the procedure.

- pigments based on glycerol or sorbitol-glycerol. Have a thicker consistency and they are the most convenient to work with.

Pigments based on glycerol or sorbitol-glycerol have a number of advantages over alcohol pigments:

- evenly distributed and permanently fixed in the skin without changing its hue;

- gradually and gently removed from the skin;

- resistant to internal (physiological) and external (UV radiation, chemical and thermal effects of various factors;

- do not cause allergic reactions;

- do not migrate to nearby tissues after implantation;

- economical to use.

High-quality pigments are distinguished by a characteristic "greasy" luster and uniformity of composition, which are preserved even after mixing the pigments with each other. When mixed, high-quality pigments create a uniform color mixture without inclusions. When applied to the control skin remain shiny and when dry do not differ much from the color in the bottle.

It is characteristic that having a thick consistency that prevents the spread of pigment in the skin during operation, when stored, these pigments do not dry out, do not evaporate and do not require the addition of a diluent.

Pigments for permanent makeup are usually divided into pigments for eyebrows, lips, eyelids, corrective pigments and pigments for camouflage. The set of colors for each of the zones and directions in permanent makeup is called a palette. The number of colors in the palette depends on the manufacturer. Usually the most numerous is the palette of lip pigments.

In permanent eyelid makeup, black pigment or pigment is mainly used, with a predominant content of black. In General, the eyes are the only area on the face where black is used. Due to the fact that the skin on the eyelids is very thin, the black color is not refracted very much and does not give a blue shade, as on the eyebrows. The specificity of black pigment, as a pigment for the eyelids, manufacturers often indicate in its name: "black Kayal", "AI-liner", etc...

Expanding the color palette is achieved by mixing pigments. In one container, you can mix up to 3 pigments to get the desired shade. It is undesirable to mix more pigments in one container, as this will make it difficult to obtain a homogeneous (homogeneous) color. The palette is also expanded by adding white (brightening and turning the color into a cool shade) or orange (turning into warm shades) colors.

We should also highlight the corrective pigments of yellow and orange, the so-called neutralizers. Neutralizers in their pure form are practically not used, but perform a color stabilizing function (a drop of corrector is added to the selected color to prevent its transition to an unaesthetic cold shade) or are used to overlap (color correction) the natural blue of the lips and "dirty" shades after poor-quality permanent makeup.

There is a palette of natural pigments (flesh) beige shades used in the camouflage procedure

Camouflage is a procedure for micropigmentation of a pathologically altered area (scar, scar, vitiligo, etc.) with a coloring pigment selected for the client's skin color.

Pigments for the procedure must be sterile, they must be poured into a disposable container for the pigment immediately before the procedure.