Lesson 1 – Glam eyeliner, Pigments

• Let's continue our course and now we will speak about eyeliners xx

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First of all about a favorite topic - glam eyeliner:

I can surprise you, but to tell the truth, in most cases we refuse to make decorative eyeliners for the most part of clients, because of several reasons. And only if no the arguments "against", then I agree they do, but it happens rarely.

Reasons for not to do glam eyeliner:

1. They are suitable only girls with high contrast, for all others respectively are not suitable.
2. On bright eyes and eyes with the fuzzy edge of the iris, eyeliners pull on itself all attention and eyes are fade in the background of it.
3. Eyeliners can only be black, and all other colors: blue, gray, green, brown, are nonsense. Therefore, if the black color on the skin will not look black, I refuse.
4. Pigment hides into skin melanin which is higher than pigment should be put, so that’s why on the dark skin it looks black, and on the white skin they will be BLUE with using any pigment. The problem is not in pigments. So do not look for the magical black pigments, it is a myth, just look for who you can use it.
5. Eyeliners must be suitable for human-style, they do not always fit in an image
6. Eyeliners do only for motivation "beauty". Without decorated eyelashes, eyes look unnatural, so if the client is not going to do anything except permanent make-up, and will not be even dye, the best way not to do arrows.
7. Eyeliners must be suitable for the configuration of the eye, as they emphasize all lines. On the drooping eyes, this makeup will make more problems.
8. The eyeliner must properly fit into folds on the eyelids. It should not be fractures immediately or within 5 years, otherwise it will be not clean lines, it will zigzag. Need to assess the prospects, and keep the commandment, "do not harm".
9. Eyeliners visually reduce and deepen the eyes, this making brighter, but did not increase it. Of course, there are optical tricks.
10. Technically, not all are able to do the eyeliners perfect, but need to do them perfect, or not to do them at all. They must be clear, smooth, uniform, with pointed tips without any bends. So, if you are not able to do it like this, better don't do it. No offense, but I think that eyeliners can be done only by an experienced master of PMU.
11. The eyeliners cannot be removed without master and client tears. Responsibility of the result must lay on the master and on the client. The decision must be deliberate because it is very difficult to remove it and not always possible.
12. Having made eyeliners woman always loses the ability to be gentle, natural, and her man and children forever lose the opportunity to know her without makeup.
13. After plastic surgery eyeliners change shape, so if a woman has a desire to make blepharoplasty in future, don’t do eyeliner
14. Clients dream about makeup with liquid eyeliner effect, glossy, black, watching for just done works on the web. No nothing worse than unrealistic expectations, because at the end they get muffled, matt, and often not very black sketch and glamorous eyeliners

Actually, most often words people say in our studio: "Make me eyeliner!". When we talk about type of appearance of this person, about her work, social role and so on, I always find out that a person wants to have proper look, natural beauty. When I explain what choices we have and make eyelash enhancement with light shadows, I always hear: "Oh! wanted exactly this variant. This is eyeliner Isn’t it?" So I made the conclusion, that most parts of the clients don't understand the difference between techniques. When I draw them different variants they usually choose shadows with little tail (1st rate in all eyes PMU), then eyelash enhancement (coloring between lashes) with little tail with a soft upper edge (2nd rate). Some clients can still keep asking for eyeliner (3d rating). Usually, they are brunettes. It is important to show them the real look of healed PMU. Because they imagine - wet black eyeliner, like in fashion magazines. And then prepare themselves to visit, they are browsing the internet and notice a lot of fresh PMU photos.

So in order to be not "cheap" master and to have not cheap clients and requests and to have interesting beautiful works, please prepare to work mostly in shading techniques. Just compare, how will change the look of a person, if you change cheap eyeliner (lower photo) to nice shadows (upper photo)

• Now let's talk a little bit about the sketch.

First of all about pens and markers:

We use the usual gel pen.

We put anesthetic cream with toothpick very accurately not to smudge the sketch.

For students, I recommend white pencil to draw the sketch around the sketch, just in case if they smudge it accidentally they can still see the edge of sketch.

About some schemes:

Making any PMU of eyes we usually work from the first eyelash in the inner corner of an eye till the last eyelash in the outside corner of the eye. If last eyelashes grow too low, then orient yourself regarding line what can be built as a continuation of bottom eyeliner.

The inner side of eyelash enhancement or eyeliner should be very thin in healing state, no more than 1mm, outside line, should be much thicker and can be 3-4 mm. Visually dark accent should take no more than 2/3 of eyeliner.

PMU usually heals thinner than fresh work, so your fresh work should be till 1mm wider than the required result.                        

When you make eyeliner,  you should always fill not only eyeliner, but you should fill eyelash enhancement also because eyelashes area can look too empty and too light in comparison with eyeliner if you don’t fill the area of growth of eyelashes and eyes will look weird. The tail (end) of eyeliner or eyelash enhancement should be lifted toward the horizontal axis of the eye about 45 degrees.

This is an important moment because the eye should not look sad, but it will happen if you don’t direct this line-up.

In fact, all eyes are different and I won't give you a universal tablet for all cases 🙂 You will try to play with these directions and find what looks better for an exact person. But there is universal advice for a length of this tale: every person has got one main crease on the outside part of the eye sometimes 2 creases.

You should never cross this line whatever the client says about her expectations. Why? First of all, because if you do, you get fractures of line, then because when this lady becomes older these long tails will flag down. If she does blepharoplasty operation this tails will obviously take different positions, unfortunately.

For this reason, we really don’t like eyeliners at all. Yes, it should sound strange, but it is the worst solution for a beautiful lady. If you want to give good advice to your client if you want to help the person to stay beautiful in many years, try not to do gram eyeliners.

The upper line should be usually done with 1rl needle, usually, it lays deeper than the other part of PMU. So when people try to remove eyeliners with laser procedure we see that the inner part of eyeliner fades down, but the line is still in place and stays very bright. As laser treatment is a very painful procedure and gives awful swelling not many people finish this removing. They really struggle with what they have.

What solution do we offer to clients from the mentioned point of view?

We offer shadows. First of all, they look more natural, if a woman has got no mascara on her eyes, she looks still harmonically. If to consider eyeliner you'll see an absolutely different picture: face looks weird with eyeliner and without mascara. Moreover, the upper line of PMU is made with the light technique it is not closed with deep heavy line, such PMU can fade down in time and be removed or redone. Shadows look more expensive, more presentable, more interesting. Eyeliner looks very flat, simple and often cheap, especially if color migrates down and becomes grey-blue.

I showed some scheme of shadows PMU. As in the case with eyeliner you should do eyelash enhancement also then work with shadows. You can see that the different angle of shading gives us a different density of PMU. If you see that pigment is not implanted well as you expected you can try slow circular movements in the darkest areas. In order to make a nice gradient better to put a dark area and put a transparent area then you can fill the middle side with an average density of color and such way join both areas to do this smooth gradient.                        

As in the case with eyeliner never fill area out of the crease, work only in visible part of the eyelid.

Now please look at the examples of different techniques. Not all works are healed but you will understand the differences between them:

Before we go on, I would like to talk a little bit about lower eyeliners. Actually we don't make them a lot, because if you will do them it should be done without any visible line. It should look as if you put little shade there. No brighter than this:

and of course not like this:

Even then you can put too much pigment.

The skin of the lower eyelid is very thin, dry and transparent. So in order to do some invisible shade there, you should dissolve the pigment a lot with water and work very very light.

So there is too much uncertainty in lower eyeliner (actually shader). I saw lower eyeliners of real PMU stars and they look too bright.

When you talk to a person with such PMU  you actually speak with external parts of eyes but not looking at the person.

I don't like to work in a sort of field without clear guarantees of how my work will heal.

And I don’t want to do some bright trash which is demanded by clients some times.

At the same time, you have no guarantee that some works will not heal at all with such light techniques. So if you have high standards of work in natural style, you should be very accurate and be ready to do this work with some additional touch up procedures.

So it is 10 times more difficult to make beautiful and natural work on this part of the eyes. And it is a big responsibility. You can't make these eyeliners quickly as a gift after top eyeliner as we can see in some advertisements. You should do this work separately with full attention to the process with perfect quality for normal payment. But as you understand clients rarely want to have 2 normal long procedures and pay 2 normal prices for both types of eyeliners.

Continue and let’s speak about pigments:

Usually, PMU artists use black color for different types of eyeliners and shadows.

Not every artist uses different colors for eyes PMU, but we use ash colors, some types of brown colors, blue, purple, green colors for shadows.

As for brands the PMU artists use equally tattoo inks and PMU pigments.

Every artist usually tried a lot of pigments even at the beginning of his/her work. Why? Everyone is looking for ideal pigments.

Actually we have no ideal pigment for eyes PMU.

Tattoo pigments are nice, they don't fade down so much as PMU pigments, but they have got too fine molecules, so they can penetrate into vessels and you may get smudges.

You even can see how pigment moves in capillaries if the procedure passed not quite lucky. It can look like this:

Why it can happen? As I told before, the black tattoo pigments usually have little molecule. It’s difficult to achieve a bright black color without the usual carbon – C in the composition of pigment. Just look composition of pigment on the bottle. Just look if it contains carbon or not. Carbon is a really black substance but it is really a little molecule.

How to understand the size of the molecule in pigment? You should know the exact composition of pigment. If to look at the chemical periodic table you notice, that carbon is located at the beginning of the table. It has #6, it means, that molecule has 6 protons, 6 electrons, 6 neutrons, atomic weight is 12. There is nothing more in the whole molecule of carbon black component. It is a very little chemical compound.

If you use PMU pigments they are not so strong after healing and can fade down quite much.

What chemical production can use as the main component of inorganic black pigments?

Oxides of iron FeO, Fe2O3, but last ones usually not so black.

Let's look at the chemical periodic table you notice that iron - Fe is located in the middle of the table. It has #26, the molecule has 26 protons, 26 electrons, 30 neutrons, atomic weight is 55.85.

Then Oxygen has place #8, containing 8 protons, 8 electrons, 8 neutrons, atomic weight is 15.999.  

You should take 2 molecules of iron and 3 molecules of oxygen to receive the most stable iron oxide Fe2O3. It is a big molecule in comparison with Carbon. If you see mentioning only organic chemical compounds in the composition of pigment then molecules should be big because they usually are polycyclic hydrocarbon compounds, enough complex huge molecule.

The problem is that manufacturers don't like openly tell the real composition of pigment. This is why our task is so complicated and we have to try all by own experience but not from normal logical thinking 🙂

In addition to thought about the absence of ideal pigments, all black pigments become blue after healing.

We could imagine it like this:

But unfortunately it will look like this:

What we can do to avoid the blue nuance of black eye PMU as long as we can?

In any choice of pigments (tattoo or PMU pigment) you always need to make black colors warmer. We like to use Softap 090 and 331 mixing with 170 or 180, you can use pure 180, but lines will not be true black, they will be dark ashy brown. You can use Jetblack biotouch with a drop of bright red or sunset orange (4 drops of black: 1 drop of corrector).

You can use pure 6th sense #1 but better to use #3.2 it will be warner but not bright black. You can use Dynamic or Fantasia lining black with a drop of red or orange. I should say if you correct black with red color you'll have brighter black after healing, but it becomes purple after some time, but if you correct black with orange color it is more correct way to warm the pigment, but orange contains yellow color what makes any pigment lighter, so it's more difficult to have true black color with such correction. Actually it will look more like warm ash than black.

To tell the truth, any black eyeliner looks grey-blue even after less than 3 years. Actually all colors heal colder on eyes and lips than on brows skin. If pigment lays deep enough, they can stay in the skin many years.

Usually, we have much warmer colors to refresh procedures. But any skin has got an exact place for pigment capsules.

It is like a bowl with balls if the bowl is filled you can’t put there anything else.

If the liner is dense enough, your new pigment will be led out of skin quickly and you'll see the previous color again. So the grey-blue eyeliner is like karma… once you made this and then it will be always with you till you clean it. But this process is really long, hard and awful whatever you use laser or remover.

As for refresh and cover-up procedures, what we use at the refresh procedure depends on the size of the problem.

If PMU has got light cold nuance you can use warm pigment and cover up the problem. If this color is really cold you should cover it with that corrector which color is absent in the required color. So if you need to solve the purple PMU problem you cover it with a yellow corrector, if you solve the blue PMU problem cover it with an orange corrector. Then you can cover all PMU with main warmer pigment.  If you have a very noticeable color transformation of old PMU maybe you need two passes of the corrector, then the top layer of the main color, just estimate the exact situation, pls.

If to talk about brands.

6th sense #3.2 covers light blue PMU quite well for some time. If you use Softap all right part of the product line is warm, say 160-180 are enough too warm to cover cold for some time. If you use fantasia, dynamic or different tattoo pigments intenze, enternal, mom and so on, you can just put needed color in the mix more than others.

But nothing guarantees us that it will be good after some time.

First of all, because skin with dense PMU has not enough place for new pigment.

Secondly, different primary pigments have different stability and brakes down at different times. Of course if yellow fades down, you still have got blue and red colors in PMU, so you see purple eyeliner. Actually the first visit of a client to PMU master means that she will depend on these procedures forever. This is the only truth about colors and pigments.

There are no ideal pigments! You can be successful in making brows which will fade down in 1 year before they change color. But if you make the long-lasting procedure as eyes PMU, lips PMU (they simply last longer because of skin type), and if you make brows with tattoo pigments which last much longer you will face the music of these breakdowns processes.

I hope now after this chapter about pigments you will understand the natural concept of PMU a little bit better and accept it as reasonable too as we do.

You still can make some women happy. Just be very careful and responsible for what you make.

Maybe I have scared you a lot now. But all of this is the truth and you should just take it in account when you make the procedure, when you choose the pigment when somebody asks you to do Sophie Loren's eyeliners.

And when you see some new wonderful black pigment in FB advertisements you will know that there are no wonders in pigments world, whatever brands' represents say. Just look at the composition of pigment, make your own forecast how it will behave and try to prevent any negative consequences with usual logical thinking.