Permanent makeup – Eyeliners
PERMANENT EYELID MAKEUP.
Today, there are three types of permanent eyelid makeup.
Permanent makeup of the interstitial space-painting over the skin of the eyelids in the area of eyelash growth. As an independent procedure, permanent make-up of the interstitial space is used to give visual density and length to the lashes, as well as - to give expression to the look while maintaining the "effect of a washed face". Also, the skin between the lashes is a necessary (basic) stage of the procedures of permanent makeup of the eyelids "arrow" and "shadow shading". The technique "interstitial space" can be used on the upper and lower eyelids.
Permanent makeup "arrow" - painting over the skin of the eyelids over the lash space (above the lash line). This type of permanent makeup carries a more decorative load than permanent makeup of the interstitial space, and is a clear eyeliner, ending with an arrow of various shapes. The Strelka technique is rarely used on the lower eyelid. A clear drawing of the lower eyelid in age-related clients increases the effect of fatigue and shadows under the eyes, and the lower eyelid mucosa may look somewhat saggy.
Permanent makeup "shadow shading" implies a blurred outer edge of the eyeliner, the so-called shading. With this technique, you can achieve the effect of eyeliner shaded contour pencil or shadows. The technique of "shading" can be used on the upper and lower eyelids.
"Shading" is suitable for any form of eyes, especially for age-related eyes or eyes hidden by a heavy upper eyelid. Owners of such eyes are often difficult to hold a clear eyeliner, because
folds and small wrinkles deform its shape.
THE STEPS IN THE PROCEDURE OF PERMANENT MAKEUP CENTURY.
Purification
Before the procedure, it is necessary to clean the eyelid skin from cosmetics. To clean and degrease the skin, use cotton pads moistened with a solution of chlorhexidine or wet wipes. Special lotions are used to remove waterproof mascara.
Anesthesia
In permanent eyelid makeup, it is strictly forbidden to use injection anesthesia or instill an anesthetic into the eyes, in order to avoid an allergic reaction or corneal burn.
For permanent eyelid makeup, ointment anesthetics are widely used, which also soften the skin and are the most effective. The ointment or cream is gently applied with a cotton swab to the closed eyelids before or during the procedure for 15-20 minutes under the film, and then erased with a cotton pad moistened with a solution of chlorhexedine. The disadvantage of ointment anesthetics is that the subsequent sketch of the arrow or shading is poorly applied to the oily surface of the eyelids from the ointment, so this type of anesthesia is used only at the stage of performing the interstitial space that does not require drawing a sketch. Liquid anesthetics are also applied in permanent makeup on eyelids. The anesthetic solution is gently applied with a cotton swab to the closed eyelids before starting (for 15-20 minutes) or during the procedure for (5-10 minutes). Liquid anesthetics do not contain an oil base and dry quickly, which allows you to put on the eyelids sketch arrows or shading.
It should be noted that after the first pass of the needle (violation of the integrity of the skin), the effect of the applied anesthesia increases. In the course of work, focusing on the pain of the client, it is possible to periodically reapply the anesthetic. The application of anesthetic should not be frequent, as additional anesthesia increases swelling and complicates the process of work.
Sketch (this stage is not available when performing inter-page space, as an independent procedure).
Sketch arrows or shading on the eyelids requires the master of special accuracy and balance. The master is obliged to warn the client that it is undesirable to do such a variant of permanent makeup, which will look strange without General makeup on the face.
It is also important to warn the client about the possible consequences that may occur after blepharoplasty or simply as a result of age-related changes in the skin on the eyelids and around the eyes, and strongly recommend not to do a wide eyeliner with an excessively long arrow.
The choice of technique depends on the cut of the eyes and on the features of the features:
- ideal eyes are considered almond-shaped, the distance between the inner corners of which is equal to the length of the eye, and the inner and outer corners are on the same straight line. Normally located almond-shaped eyes suggest the implementation of any techniques, at the request of the client.
- when close-set eyes should not emphasize the inner corner of the eye, and focus on the outer corner (on the outer third of the eye). On the contrary, with wide-set eyes, the inner corner of the eye is emphasized, while the outer corner is not lengthened.
- narrow eyes can be rounded if you focus on the center: placing the widest part of the eyeliner in the center of the eye
- small eyes can be enlarged by extending the eye section using the arrow. The eyeliner of the lower eyelid, which does not connect with the upper one, also visually enlarges the eye.
- If the eyes are round and large, the interstitial space and only the inner row of eyelashes are painted over. It is also possible to visually pull the eye by means of thin arrows. The lower eyelid is drawn close to the lashes with an emphasis on the middle of the eye.
-With ptosis of the upper eyelid, or the form of a "crying" eye, the eyeliner line is drawn from the inner corner of the eye (from the point of connection of the eyelids) and ends with 4-5 cilia to the last eyelash. The lower eyelid is not recommended to bring or thinly paint the interstitial space of the outer corner of the eye. If the outer corner of the eye is not hidden by the overhanging eyelid, raise the outer corner of the eye as much as possible. Make the arrow sufficiently pronounced in width.
- slanted eyes are made almost straight arrow (try not to raise the corner of the eye), 2/3 of the outer corner of the lower eyelid are highlighted with a light color pigment (brown, gray)
- With bulging eyes, a wide line of eyeliner will make the eyelid "heavy". In this case, an interstitial space is suitable or in combination with a small shading
- Deep-set eyes are corrected by a thin shading (preferably not black but gray pigment or color), or simply by painting over the interstitial space. It is unacceptable to perform the line of eyeliner and arrows, leading to visual lowering of the outer corner of the eye.
A special marker or gel pen with black ink is used for the sketch.
In the case of permanent eye makeup in the form of arrows drawn length, width and shape of the arrows. The sketch is performed on the client, which is in the supine position. In this position, the client's facial muscles are relaxed, which facilitates the application of arrows. The master checks the symmetry and appropriateness of the received form by placing the client and examining the face from different sides. It is important to draw the arrows symmetrically initially since it is impossible to objectively assess the thickness, length, and symmetry due to the pronounced edema during the operation of the needle. The sketch of the borders of the shading is performed similarly to the sketch of the arrows.
Permanent eyelid makeup is performed mainly with black or dark gray pigment. You can use colored pigments: green, purple, brown.
"interstitial space»
Anesthetizing solution or ointment (under the film) is gently applied with a cotton swab on the closed eyelids before starting the procedure for 15-20 minutes and then erased with a cotton pad moistened with a solution of chlorhexedine.
The procedure is performed with a single-channel needle. You can use three-channel and five-channel beam needles. In permanent makeup, only disposable sterile needles are used. It is advisable to open the package with a needle in front of the client to prevent his concerns about the safety of the procedure.
The master at this stage should immediately determine the thickness of the skin and the optimal depth of penetration of the needle: the tips of the fingers of the free hand that fixes the impact zone during operation, feel the characteristic vibration of the skin, which is transmitted to it from the needle of the machine. The vibration should be light. The needle should not " dig " the skin: often go in and out of it. Once having overcome the skin barrier, the master should try to "get out" of the epidermis as rarely as possible. This control reduces the pain of the client, as painful is the moment of immersion of the needle into the skin, and not finding the needle in the thickness of the skin. It is important to know that the skin of the eyelids can not be pierced through with a needle.
In addition to controlling the vibration for optimal puncture depth, it is important to visually assess the thickness of the eyelid skin and the proximity of the vessels to the skin surface (in order to avoid getting the pigment into the vascular network and spreading the pigment under the skin).
. A particularly dangerous area when performing a permanent makeup procedure is the junction of the upper and lower eyelid in the outer corner of the eye. The skin of this zone has micro-wrinkles, getting into which the pigment spreads under the skin spot. The most serious complication when working in this area is getting the pigment into the tear channel and spreading it under the skin in the form of a dirty gray tear. It is almost impossible to remove such a marriage, even with the help of laser technology. In addition, when using a laser on the skin of the eyelids, there is a high risk of crust formation.
During the procedure, it is important to ask the client not to open his eyes, as at the sight of the needle, the client can be scared and involuntarily twitch, and also-do not blink, as frequent blinking makes it difficult to fix the needle on any area. Almost always, the procedure causes tearfulness in the client, which also complicates the work process. With his free hand, pulling the skin as much as possible (but without deforming the contour), the master slowly draws a line from the inner to the outer corner of the eye. The greater the skin tension, the less pain the client feels. The line is executed by dot return-moving movements (strokes) no more than 1.5 mm.
Eyelashes on the upper eyelid are arranged in several rows (about 3-5). The number of rows depends on the width of the line of interstitial staining. The work begins with the lower row of lashes, and then the master moves to the next row of lashes and so on to the top row.
Permanent makeup «arrow»
The anesthetic solution is gently applied with a cotton swab to the closed eyelids before starting the procedure for 10-15 minutes, and then erased with a cotton pad moistened with a solution of chlorhexedine.
After drawing the sketch, the master draws the outline of the arrow with slow stroke (back-to-back) movements. The line should be smooth and clear. The work is performed with a single-channel needle strictly according to the sketch code.
It is important to initially draw the arrows symmetrically and fix them with a needle since in the process it is impossible to objectively assess and correct the shape of the arrows due to pronounced edema.
Filling the arrow with color is performed with a single-channel needle, for a denser shade. The edge of the arrow is performed superficially, stroke movements at a slow speed of the machine, from the corner of the arrow to the inner corner of the eye. When you paint the arrows, it is better not to move away from the specified contour. If the master has doubts about the shape, thickness, and length of the arrows, you do not need to try to correct them in the process and make changes in the correction procedure.
Immediately after the procedure, due to eye swelling, the arrows will differ from the preliminary drawing. After the swelling subsides, and everything will return to normal, it will be possible to judge the symmetry of the executed arrows, it is Better to immediately warn the client about this nuance.