Permanent makeup – Eyebrows – Basic course

PERMANENT EYEBROW MAKEUP.

Permanent eyebrow makeup that meets modern beauty trends is performed in the "hair to hair" technique. Before we dwell on the description of hair technology, I would like to mention the technique of "shading", which finds its admirers among clients who focus on the decorative component of the image.

The technique "shading" requires a sufficiently dense (without gaps) Sacrae the skin of the eyebrows. Implantation of the pigment in a solid layer creates the effect of eyebrows, tinted shadows or contour pencil. Such a technique implies a certain artificiality of the image: the owner of such

permanent makeup seems to others always with painted eyebrows, regardless of the situation and the presence of makeup.

The most successful works in permanent makeup differ in that they not only improve the aesthetic perception of the face but also look so natural that they do not pay attention to themselves without a close look at the face.

This result is designed to achieve a modern technique of permanent makeup eyebrows "hair to hair". The hair technique has two varieties: European and Eastern.

The "European technique" is performed with strokes that mimic natural brow hairs. Strikeprice in the head eyebrows upwards, and the tail gradually bend. Strokes are drawn almost parallel to each other at a certain interval and do not intersect with each other. (see figure) the Hairs (strokes) should not be thick otherwise the eyebrows will look unnatural.

THE STEPS IN THE PROCEDURE OF PERMANENT MAKEUP EYEBROWS.

Purification

Before the procedure, it is necessary to clean the skin of the face of cosmetics. To clean the skin in the eyebrow area, use cotton pads moistened with a solution of chlorhexidine or wet wipes. At the stage of purification, it is recommended to apply soft scrub to the eyebrow area, which will carefully dissolve and remove dead cells, enhancing the effect of the applied anesthesia

Anesthesia

The anesthetic solution is applied to the area of the eyebrows with a cotton swab for 15-20 minutes. Bleaching of the skin at the site of application of the anesthetic occurs due to the narrowing of blood vessels and is a normal reaction. It should be noted that after the first pass of the needle (violation of the integrity of the skin), the effect of the applied anesthesia increases. In the course of work, focusing on the pain of the client, it is possible to periodically reapply the anesthetic for 5 minutes.

The performance of the sketch

The eyebrow consists of 3 parts: the head starting at the bridge of the nose, the middle part and the tail. According to classical proportions, 2/3 should occupy the distance from the head of the eyebrow to the point of maximum elevation, and 1/3-the distance from the corner to the tail of the eyebrow. The head of the eyebrow should always be below the angle and tail of the eyebrow, and the angle of the eyebrow-above the tail. Most often, the master has to raise the tail of the eyebrow and lengthen the eyebrow in order to make the face look younger, and the upper eyelid higher. The distance between the eyebrows should be slightly less than the length of the client's eye. It is not necessary to bring your eyebrows close to each other on the nose: the face will look gloomy and frowning, the best option of the eyebrow arc - curve similar to the contour of the halves of the upper lip.

There are control lines and points that allow you to create a geometrically correct shape of the eyebrow. To determine the perfect shape of the eyebrows, look at the photo below and imagine that similar lines are drawn on the client's face.

THE BASICS OF MAKEUP IN PERMANENT MAKEUP

Proportions of the human face

The oval face is divided into three equal parts: 1 - from the hairline to the eyebrow line, 2-from the eyebrows to the tip of the nose, 3-from the tip of the nose to the edge of the chin.

The distance between the eyes is equal to the length of the eye; eyebrows, the edge of the eye and the wing of the nose are in one line.

This scheme is an indicator of the ideal proportions of the human face.

Две фотки девушки 

THE ARCHITECTURE OF THE EYEBROWS

The eyebrow consists of three parts: the head (the beginning of the eyebrow), the body and the tail. According to classical canons, a harmonious and correct eyebrow is considered, in which the tail should be on the same straight line with the head, or above the head.

фотки видов форм бровей

SELECTION OF THE SHAPE OF THE EYEBROWS ACCORDING TO THE SHAPE OF THE FACE.

Faces can be divided into 6 forms: oval, round, square, triangular, diamond-shaped and elongated face shape.

Oval and diamond-shaped face fit almost any shape of the eyebrows, it is only necessary to correctly find the height of the rise, the beginning, and end of the eyebrow, based on facial features. This can be more flat, curved eyebrows, eyebrows round and with a break.

Square face suitable eyebrows with a soft break. Do not fit straight eyebrows, they are visually

"cut" the face, making it shorter.

A round face should never have round eyebrows. They will only emphasize the roundness. It is desirable to raise the tips of the eyebrows, and with sloping eyebrows to make the peak higher.

With a triangular shape, a soft break is good. At the same time, follow the tip of the eyebrow-the beginning and end of the eyebrow should be approximately on the same line, otherwise, we visually expand the triangle, making the top the face is abnormally wide, compared to the lower part of the face.

With an elongated shape, it is undesirable to emphasize the elongation of the oval, so we try to "extinguish" the length as much as possible, that is, we make the eyebrows more flat.

The shape of the eyebrow is selected taking into account the individual proportions of the face:

- for a face with large features, wide eyebrows are suitable, and for a face with small features - narrow. With the wide eyebrows, the face with small features will look dull and unkempt - the higher the break (corner) of the eyebrow, the more optically the face lengthens, and the flat shape of the eyebrow (low break) - expands and shortens the face.

- the greater the distance between the heads of the eyebrows, the wider set eyes seem, and the nose - shorter. Therefore, if the nose is "potato" or wide, do not place the head of the eyebrows widely. And Vice versa, if the nose with a thin bridge of the nose, massive and long, you need to bring the heads together minimally.

Фотки видов лиц

- for a falling eyelid or lowered eye, an eyebrow that optically raises the corner of the eye (with a not too long-tail) is suitable, but you should not unnecessarily raise and thicken the tail of the eyebrow;

After selecting the form, the client's face is applied with a cosmetic pencil or gel pen sketch. It is desirable that the sketch was performed by the master, not the client, as this will facilitate the subsequent process of work. During the execution of the sketch, the master gets the opportunity to study the relief of the face, and due to the inclusion of mechanical memory, the selected shape will be easier to repeat when working with the machine.

All faces are asymmetrical (one eyebrow is higher than the other, and so on.). The task of the master is to make the eyebrows as symmetrical as possible. But often achieving symmetry (pulling one eyebrow to the other), the master can go far beyond the boundaries of the growth of the client's own eyebrows, which is not desirable. When making a sketch, it is necessary to rely on the natural shape and location of the client's eyebrows and not to change it dramatically.

The sketch is performed on the client, which is in the supine position. In this position, the client's facial muscles are relaxed, which makes it easier to apply the sketch. The master checks the symmetry and appropriateness of the received form by placing the client and examining the face from different sides. It is also necessary to find out how the new shape of the eyebrows behaves in facial expressions: when talking, smiling. To identify the asymmetry, the master can look at the completed sketch through a mirror: standing behind the shoulder of the client, looking in the mirror.

The main shade used in permanent makeup eyebrows is gray-brown, with a predominance of gray or brown, depending on the color of the skin and hair of the client. Black color, not used for permanent eyebrow makeup. Eyebrows made in black will look like a blue tattoo. Pigment paints that look great on the surface of the skin, made in the skin can lead to the effect of increasing the color temperature. And the client with red hair and warm (Golden) skin, rightly using a reddish pencil, making the procedure of permanent makeup similar in tone pigment can eventually get red eyebrows. In General, any pigment with a predominance of brown color, introduced under the skin, no matter what quality it was, over the years can turn red. The composite colors of brown are black, red, yellow, and white. Red pigment molecules are practically not removed from the skin. When exposed to direct sunlight, the black, yellow, and white components of the color fade over time, while the red ones do not, especially on warm skin. Therefore, it is necessary to add a neutralizer of redness of gray color when mixing pigments.

Conversely, a client with ashy hair and bluish (cold) skin, using a gray pencil, making the procedure of permanent makeup similar in tone pigment can eventually get bluish eyebrows. Therefore, it is necessary to add a blue-yellow neutralizer when mixing pigments.

With age, the skin may acquire a grayish hue and it is better to give in permanent makeup eyebrows preference to warm tones that refresh and rejuvenate the face. Cold tones on the contrary-enhance the appearance of pigmentation and rosacea.

Example of building an eyebrow shape

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