Lecture 4 – SERUM CONTENTS SPECIALTIES AND DISTINCTION FROM OTHER TONING MESO PROCEDURES (CC GLOW AND MESOWHITE)

Today the market has a rather large number of serums for the bb glow skin treatment procedure. This is primarily due to the great interest in this procedure, as well as the growing demand for the product itself. It is no secret that half of the success in the bb glow procedure depends on the quality of the serum. We’re not just talking about a visual effect. Ideally, the serum is also a therapeutic drug aimed at combating skin imperfections, signs of premature aging, and a number of other problems. Simply put, it is a combination drug. The most popular products are serums from Korea, China, Poland, and Thailand. We will not talk about the issues of authenticity and product quality in this lecture. We will take into account the argument that a self-respecting professional master will only work with a high-quality certified medicament. Therefore any professional master must first check the purchased preparation for certification.

In addition to light-reflecting particles, serums should contain caring, nourishing and rejuvenating substances such as peptides, hyaluronic acid, plant extracts (aloe, avocado, witch hazel, etc.) and active substances that affect the production of melatonin. The content of titanium oxide is also different. In all the variety of serums there are several varieties, despite the fact that, in general, they perform similar functions and provide similar results.

Mesowhite serums contain more titanium oxide and have a more pronounced lightening effect. As a rule, they also contain more substances that suppress melatonin. First of all, these drugs are designed to lighten the ethnic skin, smoothing its tone, and therefore are the most popular in the markets of Southeast Asia countries. They usually have 1 tone.

Meso BB ampoules are products that, in addition to lightening, give the skin a radiant, fresh tone and usually consist of several sub-tones (two, or even three). Some ampoules have 1 tone, however, some, like from Matrigen company, can adapt to all 4 facial skin phototypes due to the special form of titanium oxide molecules.

The newest generation of serums is CC Covered ampoules (Color Control) – contain special substances in the composition that give more radiance, thicken the skin matrix and improve its overall condition.

Most of the questions, both among professional masters and clients, arise about the content of a substance such as titanium dioxide in the serum.

Titanium dioxide is a physical (mineral) filter. Physical filters block the path of the UV rays A and B, preventing them from penetrating into the deeper layers of the skin. They have a wide spectrum of action, and at high concentration in a cosmetic product, are capable of completely blocking UV-radiation, therefore they are called UV blocks. The most common of them are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

Even in micronized form, physical filters do not penetrate the skin and do not have a photosensitizing effect. They are chemically and biologically invert and, therefore, do not cause irritation, phototoxic or photoallergic reactions, which makes them suitable for children and those with sensitive skin. Another advantage of physical filters over chemical filters is their immediate effect. If the activity of chemical filters appears on average in half an hour, then the physical filters begin to work immediately after applying the product to the skin.

Micronized powders are the latest generation of physical filters. Depending on the degree of grinding and the type of treatment (particles may have a special silicone coating that prevents undesirable photocatalytic reactions and particle aggregation, which reduces the filter efficiency) has a different spectrum of protection against UV-A and UV-B rays.

The non-toxic and inert nature of titanium dioxide leads to its use as a colorant and turbidity in the food, drugs and cosmetic industries.

Action:

In the cosmetic industry highly purified and fine titanium dioxide is used, which has the ability to reflect UV rays. It refers to inorganic UV filters. Such UV filters do not cause allergies and do not irritate the skin. However, when part of the sunscreen, they can make it whiter color. In order to make physical UV filters not visible on the skin, titanium dioxide particles are made smaller, However, there is a limit – very small particles of titanium dioxide can play the role of a photocatalyst, a substance that enhances the damaging effect of UV radiation. Also, particles of titanium dioxide that are too small are able to accumulate in the skin.

Properties:

– mineral pigment

– has a strong bleaching effect, brightens other pigments

– high opacity

– excellent UV filter (protects the skin from UVA and UVB rays)

– improves the grip

– dilutes the color of the pigment to achieve the correct tone in cosmetics

– has an excellent spreading capacity, brilliance, and reflectivity

– not absorbed by the skin

– adsorbent;  also a powerful antibacterial agent.

Use in cosmetics:

 –   skincare

–   mineral makeup

–   natural sunscreen

Depending on the specific conditions, it is used as a filler, as a white pigment or as a photoprotective additive in various products – powders, eyeshadows, lipsticks, antiperspirants, and protective creams. On the basis of titanium dioxide received more exquisite types of cosmetic raw materials, such as pearl pigment (titanium mica).

It is also used as a mist and bleach in the manufacture of soap (dispersed in oil or water before being added to the soap to avoid spills).

Women with sensitive skin should preferably use sunscreen containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Comparing to the chemical sunscreen ingredients, they do not absorb UV rays, but reflect them, thus eliminating irritation and allergic reactions.

Maximum concentration: 25%.

In sunscreen, titanium dioxide is used in 2-25% concentration.

INCI: Titanium Dioxide Powder.

Chemical formula: TiO 2.

Synonyms: titanium Dioxide, rutile (TiO2); titanium oxide, titanium peroxide, Titanic acid anhydride, titanium oxide (IV) titanium oxide white.

Physical characteristics:

Appearance: white powdered substance.

Smell: absent.

Solubility in water: insoluble.

pH: 6.5-8.0.

Melting point: 185°C

Flashpoint: absent (not flammable).

Stable, mixing with strong oxidizing agents is not recommended.