Lesson 1 – Lipstick Effect

Lipstick Effect

In my practice, I do lipstick effects neither bright nor natural colored. This is achieved through the use of pigments containing dioxide titanium, and I try to avoid these in 99% of my work.  The transparent effect over lips natural surface, with a view of highlighted and improved restore form and slightly increase the lips or by slightly change the color and add juiciness. This is the maximum lips effect, that I can offer to my clients.

Naturally or nothing.

https://www.youtube.com/

Advantages:

1. Clean lines add contrast accordingly and add some aggressiveness;
2. The obvious presence of makeup makes the face looks older;
3. Bright contour lines and dark colors visually reduce the lips and make them more flat looking. Considering that 90% of the clients are asking for a lip increase to be done;
4. Bright color carries an ambiance and emphasizes all the flaws respectively (wrinkles or mustache). On aged clients, this is a bad idea. Another moment, gorgeous and glamorous smiles are not common. If the client doesn't have good looking teeth it only indicates one of the flaws.

5. If the girl has a bright permanent lip makeup, this area pulls the attention of her face. So that's why better leave the ambiance to the upper zone of the face, including the eyes. For the brown-eyed brunettes, you do not know where to look, a lot of contrasts, eyes are bright, hair growth line is bright too, the eyebrows and the lips are bright too, your gaze running over her face, a lot of beauty, you quickly get tired of these people.
6. A wrong color breaks the ambiance balance and to find the right color of plasticine texture is not easy.
7. Pigment removal from the lips is a very painful and long process and not always successful. So that’s why better less than more. The bright color is reached on the basis of titanium dioxide but white pigment as we know does not change and doesn’t delete with anything, and I don’t like it. red pigment components are going away at the time and the white is staying forever.
8. Bright color can be done only densely and not transparent after these lips lose their natural shine! They become matted, less shine, less volume, less beauty, but adds more age and seems unnatural.
9. The color moving away from the edge to the center with gradient and if the color not similar to the natural lips, the permanent makeup will be looks, because under vector(contour) space does not fit evenly, here people have underdeveloped gland and inside it does not fit because there a very thin layer and even if it will be saved, it will be eaten very quickly and turns to a sharp transition – it’s not beautiful, because the natural color of the lips is watercolor and transparent, and dense shading it impossible to move without color.
10. Unreasonable expectations of the client, they go to the procedure in the hope of getting sexy lips, watched the photo of fresh works with light edema, as a result they have, matte, painted over plasticine, which also must be covered with the lip glitter to get to the divine form.
11. Now let’s talk about colors, I’m categorically against the terracotta color, warm burgundy, butterscotch color and in general all the warm colors, even a light peach color isn’t welcome, first of all, that color cannot be on the lips , secondly warm colors make a woman wrinkled, if she wants peach color, let she does it, but I scared such orders.
12. Purple and burgundy, fuchsia, didn’t do because it’s strong cold shad looks like the young lady was frozen and was near death.
13. Pink Barbie type, lollipop, and pink panther, generally leave without comment

1. Beautiful close-up images for advertising, from which squeaking masters and clients
2. The first day a customer is happy, as long as she has the light on the lips and swelling after the procedure, and the pigment laying on the surface and looks like a lipstick.
3. An exception is the red or wine color, for motivation beauty, when a woman in the image of Marilyn Monroe, and still may be a need to adjust some aesthetic defects, such as a strong asymmetry or scarring, but these situations always requires an individual approach, so that's why better leave the ambiance to the upper zone of the face

For me, the choice is obvious, the main thing is to argue your own position to a client, I think the reasons are more than enough

99% of my works done by my favorite tattoo pigments Sienna + rubbery by Intenze

I'm working with @Giant sun@ machine with acupuncture needle fast/long movements to myself like here.

• 1.5 drop of Sienna and 1 drop of raspberry and ☝🏻☝🏻☝🏻 1 small drop of water
• Size of acupuncture needle is 0,30*50mm

I work with the next types of lines:

Please look the main lines. 1.Contour

• Two sides

• 2. Strokes one side

• 3. Strokes

• 4. Circular movements

• 5. Strokes out like 2nd but not paralleled

• 6. Pendulum movements.

Now about these pigments on the picture. These are tattoo inks brand Intenze, two colors: Sienna and Raspberry. Sienna is ochre color, very warm, almost orange. Raspberry is purple-pink, very cold with a blue base. So if you mix these two colors in different proportions you can achieve different variants of natural colors for lips.

The intermediate area of lips is quite different from the red area and usual face skin, the epidermis becomes dramatically thicker in this intermediate area of lips, in addition, the keratinized layer disappears almost completely. In opposite the red area has very thin epidermis and rich vessel network. So it is very different too. And if you try to put pigment evenly with the same technique everywhere it will not be successful. So you should use different techniques for different lips areas.

• 1st step - We do light contour line 1rl needle
• 2nd step - We fill under contour area which has different skin and demands some efforts, so we can use circular movements with 3rl and put not less than 2 rows of them
• 3d step - We keep filling under contour area making short strokes with 3rl or 1rl needle,
• 4d step - Fill full lips with longer strokes with 1rl needle.

You will have a quite natural result after this technique because the only place where you use dense technique is under contour area but it will take not much pigment. So lips will not have lipstick effect, they will have the effect of kissed lips :)))

All these lips were done with this technique and these two pigments.

The best machine for lips is Giant Sun. And the most reliable company to order Giant Sun is Palifull Co. Ltd.

http://en.palifull.com.tw/Permanent-Make-up-Kit-pl565223.html

Because you can see all the variants of these machines in this store. Usually, we buy 9740 or 8650, they are the best, other ones are Giant Sun too but different models with little bit different characteristics.

If you have already bought a different model just work with your variant. These machines work not so long then more serious tattoo or PMU machines. Taiwan pen machines work maybe only 1-2 years (if you work a lot) then you'll understand that you need a new one. Next time you can buy a different model.

As for settings, If you use power block make voltage 4.5 and set 3d speed on machine, please. It is not necessarily to buy a power supply. I advise trying GiantSun without power supply in order to try the machine in general. If you like it and constantly use it you can be more picky about settings, maybe you'll want to adjust speed more smoothly, then you'll really need the power supply for this machine.

As we talked before better to buy acupuncture needles 0.30*50mm or 0.35*50mm for transparent works and 3rl needles for dense lipstick effect (you will have some quantity of 1rl, 3rl, 5rl, and 7rl needles if you buy set and some quantity of tips). Just in case needles 0.35 x 50 мм

Any Giant Sun's needles (1rl, 3rl, 5rl, etc) are not acupuncture ones.

Acupuncture needles are made for Eastern medical acupuncture procedures. They have handled what should be cut away to put the needle into machine.

As for these two pigments, you can buy them here:

www.intenzetattooink.com

My video how to collect Giant Sun machine and put acupuncture needle:

https://www.youtube.com/

Notice, we should cut only handle from the point where it begins. But you should buy needles with a length of 50 mm. If you buy shorter needles you get too short needle after the cut, if you buy a longer needle you should cut more than the handle.

You will also notice usual foam rubber, you can buy special one on tattoo markets and tattoo equipment sellers on aliexpress and you can buy any clean foam rubber somewhere else, in usual stores. The point is simply to prevent the flowing of pigment into the machine.

Needles of different configurations and tips for them.

Why don't we usually use some digital machines as Nouveau Contour or Oron for example? They have a module system. Unfortunately, 1rl modules are not the best 1pin needle you could find and use for lips. You can use it but if you try acupuncture needle you will never come back to 1rl modules of digital machines.

Even a 1rl precision needle for tattoo machines is much better than 1rl modules.

But it doesn't mean that digital machines are bad machines. No, it is not so. For example, 3, 5, 7, 9 rl,rs, magnums are very good modules.

In addition 3rl module can be used for lipstick effect or for dense under contour area.

Sienna and Raspberry should be mixed in proportions about 2:1 or little bit less or more,  like 3:1 warmer color, 5:3 colder color. You should control the mix visually because drops can be different.

We can use any diluent or distilled water, any of them. We buy distilled water in studio.

You can add 1 drop of water to the mix 2 drops of S and 1 drop of R. But if you know that skin is awful and nothing left after first procedure don't put water and change needle on touch up procedure. There is no universal recipe for all cases. Always think about what to apply in every situation.

I use the same acupuncture needle for outline/contour, inside and for gradient colors during all procedure, I change speed and character of movements. And I always have a question if it is the only way to do beautiful lips. Of course no, if after a client comes back in one month you see that the under-contour area has very weak color you should choose a different needle to put more dense color.

So starting touch up we can make contour with 1rl needle as usual but then switch to 3rl needle or to 5rl needle.

If to choose between 3rl and 5 rl I would choose 3rl because it is less traumatic than 5rl and it can go a little bit deeper into the skin. 5rl can be too traumatic because of size but you can make too superficial PMU with big trauma. It will heal to pale.

Usually we buy acupuncture needles, Giant Sun’s 3rl needles and the same tips for all needles. In order to use a 3rl needle, I use the same tip as for 1rl needle. I just make tip wider with toothpick :). In fact, Giant Sun's 1rl needles are not so good as acupuncture needles. GiantSun's 1rl is rougher than acupuncture 1rl. This is why we don't buy Giant Sun 1rl needles at all. We can buy only 3rl, 5rl,7rl Giant Sun's needles to make lipstick effect (as I mentioned before 3rl, 5rl,7rl acupuncture needles do not exist)

As for the character of work, you should work very superficially especially when you work with 1pin needle because you can go too deep. In average you need about 4 passes, but if to count all returnings to cover some spots I think you'll have more than 4 passes totally. Actually you will see if it is not enough color. Contour and area near contour should look not too transparent or else it will heal with lack of color. But the closer to inner part of lips the more transparent color you can put. The junction from transparent to dense color must be smooth. So we can use the same color but change the needle to adjust the intensity. The PMU, done with an acupuncture needle, will heal very transparent and light, 3rl PMU will be more dense.

If to talk about alternative techniques for lips sometimes  I make contour with GiantSun, acupuncture needle, then I can take Dragonfly tattoo machine with 3rl and fill under contour space with circular movements, next pass do with strokes using the same machine and needle, then I use GiantSun again with acupuncture needle and fill rest of lips closer to inner side of lips.

As for the correlation between the needle and the result after healing, sometimes we hear that  1 pin needle leave 80% of color after healing, 3rl can give you 70-60% of color, 5rl 50% … etc. But in reality everything is very relative.  1rl can leave nothing in thick skin after healing, but 7rl can leave 70% in it. At the same time 1rl can put 80% in dry skin but 7rl can leave nothing in it. Why? Because if the skin is overworked or traumatized it can get reed of all pigment in spite of all rules. All are important: type of skin, type of pigment, type of needle, type of device, the character of your movements, speed of your movements. And in different combinations you get absolutely different percent of color rest. So every time when new client comes please analyze what skin you have, what forecast you can give for work, what to take for work: what pigment, what needle, what machine. Every time you should choose unique combination of technique to maximize the rest of the color in the skin after healing. And you can be wrong as result and it's ok because you know nothing about the immunity of person, sugar level, blood pressure, hormones level.

First procedure can reveal you the peculiarities of exact skin and you can correct your technique as much as you can analyze what you have and what you can apply in this exact situation.

Usually lips PMU and eyes PMU stay longer than brows PMU. As I told it depends on pigment, method and skin also. Anyway better to say client that PMU will last for 1-1,5 years, but actually client will come back much later on average.

For example, I had been done lips and eyes PMU 6 years ago, and I started to think that lips need more color only approximately 1 year ago. So it was sort of ok for 5 years, (the pigment was My Style needle was 3rl).

1rl needle lays more transparent PMU, and it stay less time say 1 year, but if you use tattoo ink it can be ok for 2 years.

The main reason, why we say come to make refresh in 1 -1,5 years is because we don't know how quickly immunity will lead pigment out, how much pigment we really put into the skin and what result is considered as enough good PMU not to come back by the exact client⁠⁠⁠⁠.